Season for Winter Squash and Bengali "Stinky" Fish

Shrimp with Butternut Squash Seasoned with Dried Shrimp Paste. Photo by Mir Masud-Elias. Copyright 2014.

They are everywhere this time of the year -- the winter squash.  When you come from a tropical background like mine where the number of squashes used for cooking can be counted on a couple of fingers, this flagrant diversity is rather overwhelming as an ingredient. But, after listening to all the myriad health benefits of the mighty squash on where else, the radio (of the publicly funded variety), I decided this was going to be the year that I crack the winter squash family one squash at a time. Not to get too ahead of myself and knowing full well my tendencies for misplaced and mistimed enthusiasms, I started out with the easiest and most versatile of all American squashes - the butternut squash.

The Afghan Kadoo or Pumpkin Borani, for which the American butternut squash is perfect, has always been a favorite dish of mine and one that would fit well into the story of Alu Bukhara Junction. Certainly the origin of the Persian word "borani" -- typically signifying a cold salad of cooked vegetables with yogurt eaten in Turkey, Iran and Afghanistan -- would fill many pages. The dish itself is wonderfully simple yet profoundly satisfying whether or not served with meat. Here's a recipe from none other than Mr. Bittman at whose culinary (virtual) lap, I took my first baby steps towards cooking seriously - Afghan-Style Pumpkin with Yogurt Sauce.

But, for nostalgic reasons I suppose and because after 8 years in this city, I've finally discovered a relatively well-stocked Bangladeshi grocery store in my own neighborhood no less, I decided to try a Bengali recipe instead with butternut squash-- Chingri Mishtikumro or Shrimp with Sweet Pumpkin. The dish uses the same primary ingredient - winter squash - as Kadoo Borani, but the non-vegetarian ingredient is shrimp instead of lamb. Of course, the Bengali version does away with yogurt altogether (Bengalis treat yogurt more often as a sweet rather than a savory accompaniment, a significant cultural difference from Afghans, Pakistanis and Iranians). Instead of a yogurt and meat seasoning, dried shrimp paste gives this dish its je ne sais quoi. As far as I know, Kadoo Borani and Chingri Mishtikumro are not related in any way except in my own food memories, but since this blog is a personal exploration, you will have to indulge me at least this once. What both dishes share are that they're profoundly simple, dare we say humble, yet deeply satisfying.

A word on Bangladeshi dried fish or Shutki Maach (literally "stinky fish"). Preserved fish is prevalent in many cultures. The Bangladeshi version encompasses a wide range of fishes and the process involves gutting and cleaning the fish and hanging it out to dry in the sun where it gains its distinctive odoriferous character through a natural fermentation process. The best Shutki comes from specialty sellers in Chittagong, Bangladesh. My mom, who spent part of her childhood in Chittagong unknowingly bequeathed her love of Shutki to us.  I say "unknowingly" because I despised this food as a child, as any sensible child would, but something clicked and fell into place in my 20s when the slow realization of the joys of Shutki dawned on me. The mild winter weather of coastal Bangladesh is also conducive to preparing Shutki. So, paired with butternut squash, this is a perfect seasonal dish for the winter. If nothing else, the heat I'll propose in the recipe for those who can handle it, will certainly warm up your insides!

As for taste, it's one of those sublimely delicious foods that one should approach like a roller coaster ride (at least if you suffer from motion sickness as I do). This dish is not for the faint of heart in the kitchen due to the smell (which would very much have to be "acquired" shall we say). My opinionated self thinks that if you're lucky enough to have a robust stovetop vent and like eating fish, you have no excuse not to explore this transcendent food.  Adding the dried fish paste to some liquid as I do in this recipe, instead of frying it in oil will also help minimize the smell for those who are not blessed with the magic of a strong kitchen exhaust fan or stovetop vent.

For this dish, I used what I would call an introductory version or "gateway" Shutki (trust me, once you discover its many delights, Shutki can become a food addiction) -- Shutki made from drying small shrimp and made into and sold as an oil-based paste along with some crushed dried red chilies, garlic, salt and honey or sugar. This is similar to the shrimp paste used in many Southeast Asian cooking, e.g., Belachan in Malaysia, and can be found at your local Southeast Asian or Bangladeshi grocery store. For ruminations on shrimp paste, read this (there's a specially interesting anecdotal encounter between Persian and Thai cuisines). Shrimp paste may just be the invisible culinary glue that links South Asia to Southeast Asia via Bangladesh!

If you are a tad bit hesitant about Shutki, I will quote an actor I once heard who said "leap and the net will appear";-) As long as you approach the dish properly armed and prepared, you certainly won't regret it as an adventurous foodie.


Shrimp with Butternut Squash Seasoned with Dried Shrimp Paste


Serves 4

• 2 tablespoons of regular cooking oil
• 2 tablespoons of mustard oil
• 6 cloves of crushed garlic
• 1 medium-sized yellow onion (thinly sliced)
• 1 butternut squash (cut, cored, peeled and diced into cubes)
• 1-1/2 teaspoons turmeric powder
• Cayenne powder to taste (I used a couple of teaspoons)
• Whole green chilis with the top stem removed to taste (I used 6)
• 2 tablespoons of dried shrimp paste or Belachan
• Approximately 1/2 lb. of shrimp (shelled and deveined)
• Shrimp stock (optional) or hot water
• Salt to taste
• Fresh coriander leaves and lime wedges for garnish

1.  Turn on any kitchen vent or exhaust fan that you have at the fullest setting.  If you don't, throw open the windows, close the doors to the kitchen, hope for the best and light some powerful incense afterwards.

2.  Fry onions in oil until slightly golden. 

3.  Saute crushed garlic for a couple of minutes.

4.  Add turmeric and cayenne and fry for just a minute or so.

5.  Add the butternut squash, a little salt to taste and some hot water or shrimp stock (optional) to just cover the squash.

6.  Bring to a boil and simmer until the squash is tender (about 15 minutes or so).

7.  Add the shrimp paste (which likely already contains salt) and the whole green chilis.

8.  Add shrimp and cook for 3 minutes or so until they just become opaque (when it comes to food, there are few things that are worse than overcooked shrimp!).

9.  Taste and adjust seasonings, including salt, as needed.

10.  Serve warm with sprigs of fresh coriander leaves and lime wedges. This dish will certainly taste better if made in advance.

Note: The heat in this dish comes from the cayenne and the prepared dried shrimp paste so use these as sparingly or as generously as you dare. The whole green chilies, while imparting a nice stewed chili taste to the dish, don't raise the heat level.